The thought process behind my multipitch lead rope solo system
We've spent a lot of time discussing single-pitch lead rope soloing, but one question comes up again and again:
What does lead rope soloing look like on a multipitch route?
In our latest YouTube video, we added a detailed multipitch lead rope solo explanation to archive ascent footage of Golden Dog in Sedona. I walk through the systems, transitions, and decision-making required to move efficiently and safely through multiple pitches alone.
This was a memorable ascent in the development of LRS gear pre-Avant Climbing. I was active on the Lead Rope Solo Facebook group, collaborating on gear improvements with other DIY innovators. So much of the Avant LRS gear is built on those community developments. This climb specifically was a key milestone - five pitches up to 5.13a, free climbed in a few hours with no snags or system issues. The gear worked!
A multipitch lead rope solo ascent isn't a continuous upward push to the summit. It's a series of climbing up, rappeling down, then jugging up each pitch - gradually moving you up the wall. Managing the transitions between pitches is where most of the work (and risk management) happens. It is an odd and impractical climbing style, but also is a unique way to experience solitude way up off the ground.
Multipitch lead rope soloing sits at the far end of the rope solo spectrum. Top rope soloing is relatively controlled. Lead rope soloing adds substantial complexity. Multipitch lead rope soloing increases that complexity even further and requires advanced climbing experience, self-rescue skills, and the ability to solve problems independently.
If you are new to this and are fiending to "rope solo", what you are looking for is top rope soloing!
This video is intended to show what's possible and provide insight into how an experienced rope soloist approaches a multipitch route. It is purposely vague in details and is not intended as a substitute for proper instruction, mentorship, or hands-on experience. I'll say it once more - you probably just want to top rope solo.
But, if you've ever been curious about how multipitch lead rope soloing works, this is the most detailed look we've shared yet.
