My thoughts on where real multipitch speed lies
We have talked often at Avant about fix-and-following. It is an enjoyable way to multipitch! But, I’m afraid that we may have talked about it too much. It is not for all scenarios. It is an advanced tactic to be done on routes with no other climbers below you (Remember… Affect Minimal Parties is our lens for climbing ethics). Let’s be clear, a tail of rope hanging across your pitch, from a party fix-and-following above, is super annoying.
I wanted to remind climbers that you can absolutely have a smooth and efficient outing with standard belay methods. Zoom out further from fix-and-following and you’ll notice it fits into a more fundamental strategy.
Here is the even bigger thing I would focus on: Reduce Downtime.
When multipitch climbing, we are alternating climbing time with our partner, meaning that there is always one person who is not moving. A huge benefit of fix-and-following is that it frees up the stopped climber to do other tasks. But, with a trustworthy top belay device such as an ATC guide, you can still use that belay time to make logistical progress for the team (study the topo, drink water, eat snacks, sort gear, etc).
By doing these tasks while belaying, very little time is required to be stopped together. Multipitch efficiency really falls away during those minutes where both climbers on a team are stopped. No progress up the route is being made.
I have created purposeful tools for backpack-less multipitching because I think it is a key for multipitch efficiency. Carrying a few personal necessities on your own waist allow you to use those small multi-task moments productively. If you have one shared backpack for the team, it forces more time stopped together.
I like to have an understanding with my partner that it is okay to multi-task while belaying on a multipitch. One hand can be still kept on the rope, but the moments between taking in slack are a little bit longer. It is agreed upon that a simple “up rope” or “watch me” is a direct way to call for a focused belay moment. And yes, I do exclusively use a GriGri as the lead belay device for the team - it offers a bit more security to be useful while lead belaying, too.
Fix-and-Follow is not fundamental to multipitch climbing speed. The fundamental principle is to reduce downtime where both partners are stopped.
I do enjoy purposeful moments of downtime on route, taking in the exposure and chatting with my partner. But these are planned for moments when the route length allows, rarely from accidental downtime.
Tips for multipitch efficiency
DON’T link pitches. It can be a cool-climber thing to do. But, it can easily create rope drag (which wastes effort), cause communication issues, force slow-climbing runouts by running out of gear, plus other issues. Sometimes it does make sense, but longer pitches aren’t always faster.
Keep the rope tidy. Even if it is a bit slower to stack the rope well, avoiding snags and tangles will always pay off.
Study the topo before setting off for each pitch. A moment of preparation can save many stalled minutes. Nothing wastes more time than dead-ending and having to downclimb or restart the pitch. (Better yet, whoever is top belaying the previous pitch should study the topo and have already made sense of the next pitch)
Bring Rocky-Talkies. I’m not affiliated (and don’t even have my own pair) but I have used partner’s radios and see the appeal. We all have had moments of multipitching where both partners are paused, unable to hear each other, but thinking the other person is still climbing.
Wake up early. Be the first party on the route. The other parties may not have the same experience (or may not be Avant readers thinking in the lens of reduced downtime!).
