A Minimal Anchor Kit
One of the things I like about multipitch climbing is finding ways to simplify my systems without sacrificing what matters.
My personal anchor philosophy is pretty minimal. I carry a double-length sling and two small non-locking carabiners as my anchor kit. I haven't owned a cordelette in years because, for the kind of climbing I do, I can usually build the anchors I need with this setup.
Bolted Anchor?
With two bolts, I'll connect them with my double-length sling and tie a figure-eight knot to create the master point. If the bolts are at different heights, I'll adjust where I tie the knot to equalize the anchor.
It's a fast and straightforward system that works well for me.
If I am hauling, I still use this sling method but switch to locking carabiners at each bolt. The lockers become high points to clip into and haul from (assuming good bolts), so that the knot doesn't get weighted by the haul and fused incredibly tight.
Working with Trad Anchors
When I'm building an anchor from cams, of the three good placements, I try to merge two placements together into a single point and use the sling to create a V-style anchor, similar to what I'd build with two bolts. This can often be done by clipping cams to each other in a way to minimize extension if either were to fail.
The goal is to use the same basic kit across different situations rather than carrying a separate piece of cord for every possible configuration.
Of course, not every anchor is going to fit this approach.
If I have an unusual anchor with placements far apart in different directions, I'll use the climbing rope to build the anchor. This is a great backup that I only occasionally seem to need.
I almost always do this for summit anchors, where the placements are often spread farther apart. In those situations, the rope can be more convenient than trying to connect everything with a sling.
Why non-lockers?
This comes down to personal preference. I like using these ultralight Edelrid 19g wiregate biners since they are extremely light and low bulk on my harness. The anchor is generally weighted cleanly downward, so I feel comfortable with the non-locker usage.
Also when building the trad anchor, cams already have a carabiner on them so I can double up carabiners to have the same security as a locking carabiner.
The key to multipitch efficiency
Most climbers think climbing multipitch faster means climbing harder or learning advanced techniques like Fix & Follow. In reality, the biggest gains usually come from minimizing downtime (like building fast & simple trad anchors).
Interested in learning more multipitch climbing tips? Watch the video where we climb a 500-foot, 5-pitch 5.9 route in just a few hours, without either climber carrying a backpack. Along the way, we break down the systems, gear organization, communication, and small decisions that keep the day moving efficiently.
